
Pepe Jeans: un año de negocio congelado para neutralizar los efectos del coronavirus
A Pepe Jeans, la crisis del coronavirus le pilla con el pie cambiado. La compañía debía acelerar este año el plan de transformación para impulsar su crecimiento puesto en marcha tras la incorporación de Marcella Wartenbergh como consejera delegada el pasado septiembre. Ahora, Wartenbergh prevé un ejercicio 2020 de “estabilización para neutralizar los efectivos del Covid-19” y no descarta deber recurrir a la banca para buscar apoyo.
La compañía, propietaria de las marcas Pepe Jeans, Hackett, Façonnable y de las licencias de distribución para España de Tommy Hilfiger y Calvin Klein, se encuentra todavía cerrando el ejercicio 2019, que concluyó fiscalmente el pasado marzo. La pandemia tendrá impacto en 2019, pero sobre todo en 2020. “Este año no vamos a crecer: abril, mayo y junio van a ser meses casi perdidos”, explica a Modaes.es la consejera delegada de la compañía.
“Va a ser un año de estabilización para neutralizar los efect os del Covid-19 y en 2021 volveremos a crecer”, desarrolla. La ejecutiva prefiere no desvelar todavía los datos de cierre de 2019 (“aún estamos cerrando las cuentas”, dice). Según los últimos datos disponibles, los ingresos de Pepe Jeans rebasan los 530 millones de euros.
“En Reino Unido se nota el efecto desde enero, principalmente por la caída del turismo de China”, explica Wartenbergh. El mercado británico copa el 35% de las ventas de Hackett, que depende en un 50% del canal retail. “En Pepe Jeans el efecto llegó más tarde, porque se depende más de Europa, con Italia, España, Francia, Alemania y Portugal como mercados más relevantes por ventas”, señala.
Wartenbergh: “Este año no vamos a crecer: abril, mayo y junio van a ser meses casi perdidos”
Tanto para el personal del retail propio como para el de los puntos de venta en grandes almacenes, Pepe Jeans ha optado por suspensiones temporales de empleo en los diferentes países en que opera. En España, la compañía presentó un primer expediente de regulación temporal de empleo (Erte) para el cien por cien del personal de tienda (puntos de venta propios y El Corte Inglés) de Pepe Jeans, Hackett y Tommy Hilfiger, así como para el cien por cien del personal de almacén. En total, la medida ha afectado a 1.950 personas, a las que se les ha complementado el salario hasta el cien por cien.
Ahora, el grupo ha ampliado la regulación de empleo al personal de oficinas, combinando reducciones de jornada del veinte por ciento y el cien por cien. Alrededor de 250 trabajadores han sido incluidos, 150 de ellos con reducción de jornada.
Otra de las medidas implementadas por la compañía ha sido una reorganización del aprovisionamiento. “Se han reducido las compras en base a la última entrega de otoño -señala Wartenbergh-; se han parado producciones y los tejidos se usarán para nuevos diseños, es lo que llamo smart merchandising”. “Hemos reducido producciones para garantizar la rentabilidad del negocio”, enfatiza.
“Todavía no hemos contactado con los bancos, no hemos empezado una nueva negociación de los préstamos”, dice la ejecutiva
Deuda
En julio de 2019, el grupo firmó con catorce entidades financieras (lideradas por Bbva, Santander y Caixabank) un acuerdo de refinanciación de una deuda de 230 millones de euros a cinco años. A cierre de 2019, Wartenbergh asegura que la deuda se ha reducido de 230 millones a 170 millones de euros.
“Todavía no hemos contactado con los bancos, no hemos empezado una nueva negociación de los préstamos –dice la ejecutiva-; estamos analizando si los problemas son a corto o a largo plazo, aún estamos analizando los gastos que haremos y la inversión que mantendremos”. De todos modos, Wartenbergh admite que “seguramente hará falta apoyo por parte de las entidades financieras” por el cierre de tiendas. “Hay una escasez de liquidez vertical”, señala.
Ecommerce
Una de las pocas inversiones que Wartenbergh tiene claro que se mantendrá será la dedicada al área de ecommerce. “El peso digital se va a acentuar, más en Pepe Jeans que en Hackett –afirma la directiva-; la estrategia se acelera: hace seis semanas comenzamos a introducir cambios y ya han comenzado a dar resultados”.
Según datos aportados por la consejera delegada del grupo, el tráfico web ha crecido un 33% y la conversión un 20% en las últimas seis semanas. En ventas, Pepe Jeans está un 60% por encima respecto a las cifras de hace un año y Hackett, un 35%.
Las previsiones de la ejecutiva pasan por que en 2023 las ventas de ecommerce representen entre el 22,5% y el 25% del total, frente al 6,8% actual. El peso será mayor en Pepe Jeans que en Hackett, porque el cliente es más joven.
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