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  • Federico Bonelli (Pinko): “El sector ‘premium’ es el que más rápido está creciendo en la industria”

Federico Bonelli (Pinko): “El sector ‘premium’ es el que más rápido está creciendo en la industria”

Publicado en Noticias.

La marca de prendas de vestir italiana tiene 250 tiendas propias y opera a través de 1,500 multimarca. Su consejero delegado, Federico Bonelli, explicó el enfoque de la compañía en el mercado chino y discutió su inversión en digitalización y los desafíos de una estrategia omnicanal. La empresa, que se encuentra en medio de un proceso de reorganización, no descarta la posibilidad de cotizar en la bolsa de valores.

Pregunta: ¿Cuál es la nueva estrategia de Pinko? ¿Continuará la misma línea o irrumpirá con una nueva idea o concepto?

Respuesta:  Vamos a cambiar las pautas estratégicas de crecimiento. La compañía tiene una visión muy clara en términos de negocios. Esto incluye el desarrollo del mercado chino con inversiones para impulsar este tipo de red comercial. Además, somos la primera marca premium en el espacio comercial en China. Entonces, con esta visión e intención estratégicas, invertiremos en eso, y necesitamos continuar empujando nuestras tiendas hacia China. Al mismo tiempo, habrá un par de cambios en nuestra propia estrategia. Pero primero, en las personas y la organización. Estamos reorganizando completamente la empresa hacia un nuevo modelo operativo interno, nuevos procesos, roles y responsabilidades, una nueva forma de trabajo que es mucho más moderna y en línea con la complejidad del mercado.

P: ¿Cuándo comenzó esta estrategia?

R: Esta estrategia es un punto de inflexión. Decidimos invertir en el equipo que representa un cambio concreto en el gobierno dentro de la empresa, lo hicimos de una forma disruptiva porque estábamos buscando al equipo de gerentes adecuado.

P: ¿Van a mantener a su plantilla?

R: Hay un liderazgo muy fuerte por parte del fundador y un muy buen nivel de equipos operativos. Entonces, no estamos cambiando empleados. Estamos cambiando gerentes porque estamos del otro lado trabajando para desarrollar nuestro talento dentro, por lo que mantuvimos a casi todos los empleados, aproximadamente el 97%. Estamos cambiando por completo la forma en que miden su trayectoria profesional. Cambiamos la gestión y cambiamos la forma en que gestionamos nuestra organización.

Estamos cambiando por completo la forma en que miden su trayectoria profesional

P: ¿Cómo están aportando innovación en digitalización en su empresa?

R: En el pasado, era muy común subcontratar lo digital, pero puedo nombrar muchas compañías de comercio electrónico que cerraron, ahora en los últimos dos o tres años las nuevas empresas están internalizando lo digital. Claramente creo que lo digital es tan importante que no se puede subcontratar. Entonces, Pinko solía externalizar todo. Nos movimos hacia una nueva forma de acercamiento digital que es a través de joint ventures. Donde poseemos la mayor parte de la joint ventures, por lo que conocemos constantemente cada resultado, pero podemos tener socios.

P: ¿cómo está cambiando su estrategia de distribución?

R: No estamos cambiando nuestra estrategia de distribución, seguimos siendo retailers, sin embargo, seguimos mejorando nuestros canales. Continuaremos teniendo un buen nivel con tiendas de alta calidad. Cuando digo retailer, incluyo tienda física y online.

P: ¿Qué porcentaje representa el ecommerce en sus ventas?

R: Alrededor del 5% del total de nuestras ventas. Depende de cómo lo cuentes porque tenemos una alianza con Tmall en China. Pero queremos ampliar este porcentaje. Esperamos que lo digital crezca más rápido que la tienda física. El retail continuará creciendo y continuaremos la expansión en China. Espero que lo digital se duplique en 5 a 10 años o más o menos.

P: ¿Están planeando entrar a nuevos mercados?

R:  Ya tenemos presencia en las principales ciudades europeas. Por lo tanto, nuestro enfoque se centrará en aumentar el rendimiento de nuestras tiendas de Asia Oriental. Por ejemplo, en China queremos llegar a 100 tiendas para finales de 2020. También queremos consolidar nuestra presencia en algunos mercados clave.

Queremos consolidar nuestra presencia en algunos mercados clave

P: ¿Cuáles son sus tres principales mercados?

R: Nuestros tres mercados principales son Italia, China y Rusia.

P: ¿Cuáles son las previsiones de crecimiento para 2019?

R: La estrategia de crecimiento para este año está compuesta por el crecimiento en China. Ya duplicamos nuestra presencia de tiendas en el país, pasamos de 40 a 70 tiendas. También estamos trabajando duro en el producto, en este negocio el producto está en el centro. Esto es lo que nos hace estar bien conectados con nuestros clientes.

 

P: En sus últimos resultados, Pinko facturó aproximadamente 200 millones de euros. ¿Han establecido la meta de los 500 millones de euros?

R: Estamos preparando un plan más profundo que presentaremos a principios del próximo año, que apunta a tener un crecimiento muy significativo, de dos dígitos. Para los próximos 3 años esperamos un fuerte crecimiento de la empresa. Y con la nueva estrategia y el nuevo marketing, creo que llegaremos allí en cierto momento.

P: ¿Ha considerado salir a bolsa?

R: Es una opción. Pinko ha visto potencial en la bolsa de valores. En este momento estamos enfocados en nuestra estrategia de crecimiento. Pero es una puerta abierta.

P: Pinko está en un segmento muy específico del mercado. No es fast fashion, pero tampoco es lujo. Entonces, ¿es incómodo estar en medio?

R: Es el segmento de más rápido crecimiento de la industria en este momento. Fast fashion es un mercado enorme, pero está totalmente dominado por grandes jugadores como Inditex y H&M, y es un mercado de 300 a 400 millones de euros por año, que crece un 3%, interanualmente. En el medio está el mercado premium, que es donde estamos. Es un mercado de medio billón de euros que está creciendo un 6%, por lo que es el segmento de mercado más dinámico.

P: ¿Y sus competidores?

R: Nuestros competidores no son enormes. En este segmento del mercado hay muchas oportunidades de crecimiento. No eres lujo, así que puedes llegar a un público más amplio y puedes ser aspiracional. Logramos ofrecer una experiencia para el consumidor que es premium para un producto que también es premium por un precio asequible.

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