
Control de calidad y blockchain: hacia una nueva cultura de empresa

- Anne-Sophie Castro
- |
Debido a que los consumidores hoy demandan una mejor calidad y más transparencia en los productos que compran, el control de calidad es un paso clave en el proceso de fabricación de la industria de la moda. En los últimos años, han surgido nuevos estándares en la industria y ahora el blockchain sería la herramienta más poderosa que podría almacenar y transmitir información en toda la industria, desde el productor hasta el distribuidor, de forma transparente y asegurada.
¿Qué es el control de calidad?
En pocas palabras, este proceso implementado en las fábricas textiles ayuda a mantener la mejor calidad en todas las etapas de la fabricación del producto: verificando la calidad de los colores, los materiales, las costuras, los defectos o la resistencia del producto final. En el sector de la indumentaria, el pret-a-porter, los accesorios y el calzado deben ser del mismo tamaño, con costuras limpias y resistentes y aplicando mismos estándares. Los trabajadores de las fábricas deben recibir la formación adecuada para mantener estos estándares, ya que cada proceso será verificado por un supervisor de control de calidad o un especialista antes de tomar el siguiente paso.
Tres pasos afectan a toda la producción. El primero, antes de la producción. A medida que las materias primas llegan a la fábrica, se verifican su entrega, calidad general, tamaño y color. Segundo paso, durante la fabricación, donde deben realizarse verificaciones puntuales para la calidad general de fabricación a medida que los artículos avanzan a lo largo de cadena de producción. Al final del ciclo de producción, los controles de calidad garantizan que los colores, los estampados o los cortes del producto final correspondan a su hoja de datos técnicos. Las pruebas preliminares se llevan a cabo en un prototipo, luego se realizan todos los controles finales antes de que el producto salga de la fábrica o del taller, evitando así que la inspección final rechace el envío de los productos …
El blockchain en la moda
«La tecnología del blockchain sugiere una transformación histórica de una gran cantidad de sectores», publicó la revista francesa Les Echos, a principios de este año. Esta tecnología, que las empresas todavía hablan de media palabra, es una herramienta de análisis de datos computarizada que le permite regresar «a la fuente» al ofrecer la mayor cantidad de información posible en todas las etapas del proceso de fabricación de un producto. Cada vez que el producto cambia de manos, se guarda automáticamente en el sistema. Por lo tanto, el blockchain no solo informa sobre los procesos llevados a cabo en las fábricas, sino también sobre la fuente exacta de las materias primas, su composición, las horas dedicadas a cada máquina o los nombres de los trabajadores responsables de llevar a cabo una tarea específica.
Utilizado en la alimentación o las finanzas, el blockchain hizo su incursión en la moda el año pasado. Contactada por FashionUnited, la start-up británica Provenance presentó en mayo de 2017, durante la Cumbre de la Moda en Copenhague, la primera cadena de ropa, en asociación con la diseñadora Martine Jarlgaard, que integra esta nueva herramienta inteligente. “Nuestro proyecto piloto con Martine Jarlgaard fue clave en el desarrollo de este concepto, rastreando un artículo de ropa desde la granja hasta la prenda final. La industria de la moda necesita más transparencia y estamos encantados de trabajar con más marcas, ayudándolos a comunicar el origen, el recorrido y el impacto de su ropa. Actualmente nos estamos enfocando en ampliar el número de diseñadores y marcas con las que trabajamos como por ejemplo con Martina Spetlova, una diseñadora instalada en Inglaterra o la firma de calzado Fucsia Inc. También comenzamos a trabajar con nuestro primer diseñador de joyas, Anuka Jewellery. Tenemos una serie de proyectos más grandes en discusión con marcas de moda, pero todavía preferimos no comunicarlos”.
Hoy estamos hablando principalmente de blockchain como una tecnología en la que el Bitcoin está construido lejos de los billetes de las divisas tradicionales: una criptomoneda – moneda digital que se puede usar para comprar cosas reales y con la que pueden acelerar la transferencia de dinero mediante la eliminación de intermediarios, como los grandes bancos, por ejemplo. Hoy el bitcoin ve su valor variar y, a veces incluso explotar, especialmente entre los jóvenes estadounidenses. Un estudio de Coinbase, la plataforma de comercio de criptomonedas, muestra que el 18 por ciento de los estudiantes estadounidenses actualmente tienen monedas virtuales. El 17 por ciento dice tener muy buen conocimiento del blockchain y de bitcoin; una moda que presagia alternativas exitosas al sistema económico actual. Sin embargo, el valor de bitcoin, aún muy inestable, frena a los inversores. Habría sobrepasado los 18,000 euros el año pasado en la Bolsa de Chicago y ha caído hasta los 6,227 euros (valor del 3 de septiembre de 2018).
Hoy en el sector textil, el blockchain presentaría dos grandes ventajas, tanto para los consumidores como para las empresas. Para los consumidores, proporcionaría una transparencia innegable en el proceso de fabricación de las marcas de moda. Para las empresas, no solo crearía ecosistemas de moda éticos, sino que también alcanzaría su objetivo final: estudiar con precisión sus gastos en cada etapa de fabricación y lograr el máximo beneficio.
Nueva cultura de empresa y reposicionamiento
En plena mutación de los métodos de fabricación, la promoción de productos europeos «Made in», la relocalización y el surgimiento de organizaciones ecológicas, las empresas están empezando a cambiar su forma de trabajar e incluso llegan a verse a sí mismas como una organización ética. Finalmente, una mayor transparencia en las cadenas de suministro podría crear nuevos incentivos para el cambio, el efecto bola de nieve … En cuanto a los Millenials, las empresas lo saben, hoy rechazan más ampliamente a la fast fashion y dirigen sus compras hacia marcas éticas, más humanas y más justas, pagando un poco más.
Para Leonardo Bonanni, el fundador de SourceMap, un software de mapa de la cadena de suministro que utiliza el blockchain, la falta de trazabilidad y transparencia de los grupos de fast fashion como H&M o Primark a menudo son denunciados por los consumidores y las asociaciones. Él le dice a la web Fashionistas que «las cadenas de suministro de moda son demasiado complicadas como para ser rastreadas con la comunicación tradicional de persona a persona». Subraya «la necesidad de una tecnología muy avanzada para seguir la moda, especialmente de manera rápida, donde las colecciones son subcontratistas rápidos y globales».
De hecho, compañías como Loomia están trabajando en soluciones para recopilar datos de consumidores directamente de los textiles y guardarlos en el blockchain.
«Estamos supervisando un período de transición», dijo Ian Rogers, jefe de transformación digital del grupo LVMH, en el marco de la conferencia VivaTech celebrada en París en mayo pasado. «El origen del crecimiento en 15 años es diferente del de hace 15 años»
Mientras que algunas casas de moda intentan introducir los últimos avances tecnológicos, como la inteligencia artificial y el blockchain en su estructura, LVMH adoptaría por el momento un enfoque más conservador.
Foto : Provenance
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