El ‘fast fashion’ defiende el modelo ante el Parlamento británico
El fast fashion defiende su modelo ante el Parlamento británico. Representantes de Marks&Spencer, Arcadia, Primark, Boohoo, Missguided y Asos acudieron ayer a la Cámara Baja para explicar ante el Comité de Auditoría Ambiental sobre el impacto social y ambiental del sistema. Tras finalizar los distintos interrogatorios, el comité se mostró decepcionado por las respuestas obtenidas y por su falta de claridad.
La presidenta del comité que lleva la investigación, Mary Creagh, afirmó que las pruebas que habían escuchado “justifican nuestra preocupación sobre que el actual sistema permite a los retailers de moda marcar sus propias normas cuando se trata de los derechos de los trabajadores, salarios justos y sostenibilidad”.
Creagh señaló que Marks&Spencer, pese a tener un buen marco en responsabilidad social, no dio una respuesta clara en cuestiones como la negociación colectiva. Tampoco convenció al comité la respuesta de Boohoo sobre las condiciones laborales de los trabajadores las factorías en Leicester y mostró su rechazo ante la opción de la consejera delegada de Missguided, Nitin Passi, de no asistir y de dar como respuesta su desacuerdo con un proceso que considera injusto, según WWD.
El comité se mostró decepcionado por las respuestas que dieron los portavoces de algunos de los retailers británicos de moda
En representación de Missguided asistió Paul Smith, responsable de producto de la empresa, explicó ante el comité que fabrica en Leicester el 30% de su producción y que haincrementado el control sobre las factorías para asegurarse de que se actúa correctamente.
Al portavoz de Primark, Paul Lister, le preguntaron cómo podía defender la sostenibilidad de un sistema que comercializa prendas por menos de tres libras. El directivo respondió que no gastando en publicidad y teniendo márgenes muy ajustados. Jamie Beck, portavoz del grupo Arcadia, apuntó además que el grupo diseña prendas para que duren, no para que se usen una temporada.
El pasado junio, el Parlamento británico creó este comité para analizar el impacto de la industria de la moda, poniendo en entredicho la viabilidad social y medioambiental del sistema del fast fashion. La Cámara de los Comunes dio este paso después de hacerse público un informe en el que se desvelaba que cada año se tiran a los vertederos 300.000 toneladas de artículos de vestir, el equivalente a un camión de basura lleno de ropa por segundo.
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