Grecia renace de las cenizas: el turismo y el ‘fast fashion’ aúpan a la moda en el país
Grecia sale del bache y vuelve a captar inversión exterior. El turismo está siendo uno de sus motores de crecimiento y uno de los puntales para la recuperación del mercado del lujo y de la moda en el país. En paralelo, la crisis por la que aún atraviesa el país consolida la deriva del consumo hacia prendas más informales y asequibles, lo que continúa favoreciendo la expansión de gigantes como Inditex o H&M.
Las ventas de prendas de vestir en el país crecieron un 2,3% en 2018, hasta 3.569 millones de euros, y se estima que se incrementen un 2,2% más en 2019, según datos de Statista. Pese a ello, el comercio del sector continúa estando lejos de los 5.834 millones de euros que generaba en 2010.
Pese a su situación económica, el tamaño del mercado griego de la moda está por encima del de otros países con una población de en torno a diez millones de habitantes. Así, el mercado de la moda en Portugal se situó en 2018 en 861 millones de euros, y en Suecia, en 2.434 millones de euros. España, con 47 millones de habitantes, sitúa su gasto en moda en 5.080 millones de euros, según los últimos datos de la agencia estadística.
Con el inicio de septiembre, Grecia levantó las limitaciones para retirar efectivo, una de las últimas medidas que se impuso durante la crisis. Hace un año, el país puso fin a ocho años de rescate financiero, un programa que supuso importantes ajustes macroeconómicos y la recapitalización de la banca. Grecia fue el último país de la Unión Europea en dejar atrás un programa de este tipo, después de Irlanda, España, Portugal y Chipre.
Grecia inició así una nueva etapa con una mayor independencia económica, aunque su situación no deja de ser compleja. Entre 2010 y 2018, el Producto Interior Bruto (PIB) se desplomó un 25%, hasta 177.000 millones de euros; el PIB per cápita se hundió un 22,5%, y el desempleo pasó del 9,5% en 2009 al 20% en 2017. Las previsiones del Fondo Monetario Internacional (FMI) marcan un alza del PIB del 2,4% en 2019, del 2,2% en 2020 y del 1,6% en 2021.
“Grecia ha entrado ahora en un periodo de crecimiento económico que coloca su evolución por encima de las principales economías de la eurozona”, explicaba el FMI en su último informe económico sobre el país publicado el pasado marzo. “Debe perseverar en el esfuerzo para digerir el legado de la crisis y apostar por reformas necesarias que garanticen la continuidad de esta senda”, señalaba el organismo.
El turismo genera en Grecia el 20,6% del PIB del país, el doble de la media mundial, que se sitúa en el 10,4%
Parte de este crecimiento se apoya en el turismo, que genera el 20,6% del PIB del país, el doble de la media mundial, que se sitúa en el 10,4%, según datos del World Travel&Tourism Council (Wttc). En 2018, este sector creció un 6,9%. El boom turismo que revive ahora el país ha reactivado el interés de grupos de lujo internacionales, que vuelven a fijarse en este país.
Es el caso de Louis Vuitton y Dior, que han aprovechado el trajín de visitantes extranjeros en la región para poner en marcha un pop up stores en sus islas. Hace un par de años abrió sus puertas en la isla de Mikonos el complejo comercial Nammos Village para marcas de lujo. En 2018, este centro comercial recibió una media de 2.000 visitantes al día.
Sin embargo, el poder adquisitivo de los ciudadanos del país aún no se ha recuperado a los niveles pre crisis. En 2018, el PIB per capital en Grecia se situó en 1.900 euros, un 1,1% más que en el año anterior, según la Organización para la Cooperación y el Desarrollo Económicos (Ocde). Para 2019, se estima que alcance 2.100 euros y, para 2020, que descienda hasta 2.000 euros. Los indicadores aún quedan lejos de los 5.600 euros de 2007.
El PIB per cápita en Grecia se situó en 1.900 euros en 2018, la mitad de los 5.600 euros de 2007
Este nuevo entorno ha apuntalado la expansión de grupos de gran distribución, a la vez que avanza el ecommerce, aunque lo hace a un ritmo más pausado que en el conjunto de la Unión Europa por el temor al fraude, según Euromonitor. Las rentas comerciales en los ejes prime del país son también un indicativo de la recuperación del consumo en moda.
La zona peatonal de Boukourestiou en Atenas, con unas rentas medias de 2.400 euros por metro cuadrado al año, está al mismo nivel que Ortega y Gasset en Madrid, que en 2018 las situó en 2.640 euros, según el último informe Main Streets Across the World, de la consultora inmobiliaria Cushman&Wakefield.
Otro de los polos más cotizados de Grecia es la calle Tsimiski, el epicentro comercial de Tesalónica, la segunda ciudad del país, con rentas comerciales similares a las de otras ciudades europeas como Niza o Nápoles.
La moda española, capitaneada por Inditex y Mango, ha empezado a sacar provecho a este escenario. El gigante gallego cuenta con 164 tiendas en el país, 47 de las cuales son Zara y 29, Bershka; Mango, por su parte, suma once establecimientos en territorio griego; Tendam tiene seis, mientras que Tous tiene dos. Las exportaciones españolas de moda al mercado griego acumulan también varios ejercicios al alza.
En el primer semestre de 2019, las ventas españolas de moda al país se situaron en 214,16 millones de euros, un 1,3% más que en el mismo periodo del año anterior y un 34,3% más que en los seis primeros meses de cinco años atrás, según datos del Icex. Grecia ocupa en la actualidad en puesto número quince entre los principales destinos de la moda española, por detrás de Bélgica y Rusia, y por delante de Hong Kong y Suiza.
Las exportaciones europeas a Grecia también se han incrementado en los últimos años. En 2018, las ventas del resto de países miembros al mercado helénico se situaron en 2.180,1 millones de euros, un 4,3% más que en el año anterior. En los últimos cinco años, las exportaciones comunitarias al país han crecido un 10%, según datos de Eurostacom. Italia es su principal proveedor en Europa de moda, junto con Alemania, Bulgaria y Chipre.
Mientras la industria europea de la moda ha ido reestableciendo lazos con el mercado griego, la estadounidense ha continuado desinvirtiendo en el país. Las ventas de artículos de moda de Estados Unidos al mercado griego fueron de tan sólo 2,3 millones de dólares en 2018, marcando además un retroceso del 11,5% respecto al año anterior. En 2009, las exportaciones estadounidenses del sector alcanzaban 7,8 millones de dólares.
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