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- Demna Gvasalia, Virgil Abloh y Alessandro Michele son tres de los diseñadores que han reformulado las reglas del juego de la moda: han sabido interactuar con los ‘millennials’ mientras conservaban a los clientes de siempre, sus desfiles son acontecimientos planetarios y dialogan de tú a tú con la calle. De ellos y de otros creadores que están reinventado la industria trata este reportaje.
Hoy se desdibujan las barreras establecidas en el pasado. La lógica de internet, el eclecticismo y lo efímero se apoderan del diseño y delimitan nuevas estrategias de marca. La idea de conquistar a los millennials mientras se conserva a la clientela de siempre es una tarea que requiere estar continuamente en línea, conectado. Pero no solo eso, las firmas de moda también necesitan tener al mando un director creativo con la personalidad muy marcada y acorde con los valores de la marca, que a su vez emplee una estrategia y un lenguaje diferenciado para destacar por encima en el bullicio digital.
Generar nuevas noticias antes de la presentación de colecciones es una estrategia antigua pero que han retomado las firmas de ‘prêt-à-porter’ en los últimos tiempos para anunciar los traslados de colecciones de una ciudad a otra. La semana de la moda de Nueva Yorksufrió hace un par de años una crisis de identidad. Muy alejada geográficamente del resto de capitales ‘fashion’ y criticada por comercial –Ralph Lauren, Diane Von Fürstenberg, Donna Karan, Michael Kors…-, sufrió la marcha de algunas de sus marcas más aplaudidas. Altuzarra, Thom Browne, Rodarte y Proenza Schouler se trasladaron a París para presentar dos colecciones al año y así aumentar sus ventas.
Después de tres temporadas, la vuelta de las dos últimas a la Gran Manzana, el debut de Longchamp en la pasarela neoyorquina y el fichaje de Raf Simons como director creativo de Calvin Klein en 2017 han devuelto el brillo al calendario yanqui. Las buenas nuevas, sin embargo, vienen empañadas por la pérdida de Victoria Beckham. La ex Spice Girl se ha ido a Londres con motivo del décimo aniversario de su firma, que celebra también con el lanzamiento de una camiseta de edición limitada.
En la capital del Támesis, cuyos principales distintivos de su ‘fashion week’ son la diversidad y la innovación, el ingenio se agudiza para adaptarse a los nuevos gustos del público. Si bien sus propuestas no son tan comerciales como las estadounidenses, el sector contribuye al PIB británico con 33.000 millones de euros. Además, su semana de la moda genera cien millones en pedidos para los diseñadores. Hay que destacar que sus escuelas de diseño disfrutan de mucho prestigio internacional. Si Parsons de Nueva York tuvo a Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Anna Sui o Prabal Gurung como alumnos ilustres, en Central Saint Martins, la más prestigiosa de la capital inglesa, se formaron Stella McCartney, Hussein Chalayan, Alexander McQueen, John Galliano o Riccardo Tisci, entre otros.
El apoyo a Londres, a su semana de la moda y a su entramado académico especializado lo dan también figuras como Donatella Versace, que ha creado una beca para Central Saint Martins, o Tommy Hilfiger, que incluyó esta ciudad en su gira TommyNow el pasado semestre. Desde que el diseñador americano iniciara su periplo ‘see now buy now’ en 2016 (presenta colecciones cada temporada en una ciudad distinta del mundo, con última parada hace unos días en Shanghái), su marca ha estado a la venta en más de 70 países.
Milán dice adiós estos días a Gucci, ya que la firma italiana presenta en la Ciudad de la Luz su colección primavera-verano 19, inspirada en el Mayo del 68. Dolce & Gabbana, por su parte, no se mueve de la ciudad del Duomo, pero se transforma y encarna como nadie el concepto de marca ‘millennial’: las ‘influencers’ desfilan por la pasarela y los drones presentan los bolsos de otoño-invierno 2018/19. Las casas de moda italianas demuestran que Milán, además de ser sinónimo de la mejor artesanía, se ha vuelto una experta en el desfile-espectáculo que sigue fascinando al público y a los medios de comunicación.
La generación ‘millennial’ que impulsó el 85% del crecimiento en el gasto de lujo en 2017, según la consultora Bain, exige lo mismo a una tienda web que a una tradicional. En el comercio físico, el diseño está pensado para el disfrute, más allá de la mera compra. Tal y como sucede en Casa Loewe, la flagship situada en la madrileña calle de Serrano, que ambienta la milla de oro con su tienda de flores. La apertura de locales de venta como estrategia imprescindible para la creación de marca sigue imparable.
En París, hace menos de un año nació la ‘boutique’ por excelencia de Louis Vuitton, en la parisina Plaza Vendôme, en un edificio restaurado de principios del siglo XIX; también Fendi -que prepara su desembarco en España con un establecimiento de 600 metros cuadrados en el Paseo de Gracia de Barcelona- abrió en Londres un buque insignia decorado como un apartamento romano al estilo de los 60, y Stella McCartney inauguró este verano en Nueva York un espacio que plasma su filosofía basada en la sostenibilidad.
En la era digital, el ingenio y la diferenciación son clave para destacar. Unos códigos estéticos definidos, llevados a su máxima expresión y una estrategia dirigida a seducir a nuevos clientes son imprescindibles. Así lo practica Gucci con Alessandro Michele al frente desde 2015. Según ‘The Business of Fashion’ y la plataforma Lyst, ha sido la marca más buscada en internet el año pasado. Esa notoriedad, que implica un aumento de ventas cercano al 50% solo en el primer trimestre de 2018, se debe en gran medida a su estrategia ‘online’.
Balenciaga y Vetements, ambas con el georgiano Demna Gvasalia en la dirección creativa, son la segunda y la tercera marca que más interés despiertan según este informe. La deconstrucción y la exageración de las siluetas clásicas, así como el diálogo continuo entre la Alta Costura y el streetwear, consiguen que los jóvenes sean el 65% de su clientela y protagonicen el 50% de sus ventas. J. W. Anderson, en Loewe desde 2013, dirige todos los aspectos del proceso creativo y comercial. Otros nombres a destacar son: Alexander Wang, quien colaboró con H&M y dejó Balenciaga en 2015 para convertirse en el CEO de su firma homónima, y Virgil Abloh, que además de lanzar su marca Off-White está al frente de la línea masculina de Louis Vuitton y diseña ropa y calzado deportivo para Nike.
Tras la espectacular maquinaria que pone en marcha los calendarios de las semanas de la moda se esconde un motor: el económico. Con el objetivo de mantener y seguir aumentando las ventas, el ‘ready to wear’ tiene las pasarelas como laboratorio para nuevas fórmulas de atracción. Además, se ha demostrado que las escuelas de diseño son una fuente inagotable de talentos, y las tiendas físicas, la mejor herramienta emocional para captar clientes. Lo anterior, unido a las plataformas digitales a pleno rendimiento, son las claves para comunicarse y atraer al nuevo consumidor: hiperconectado, descentralizado y ávido de novedades.
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