De la pasarela a la tienda: ¿quién marca las tendencias en el ‘visual merchandising’?
Pasarela, clientes o marcas: ¿quién dicta las tendencias en el visual merchandising?
“Hay que estimular la imaginación; después, la mercancía guiará al cliente”. Así resume Joe Cotugno, director creativo de las tiendas departamentales Bloomingdale’s, la ciencia del visual merchandising. Esta disciplina ha ganado cada vez más importancia como una herramienta clave del retail para impulsar las ventas, atraer a nuevos clientes a la tienda y consolidar la imagen de marca. Modaes realiza una serie de reportajes que analizan el visual merchandising, desde sus orígenes en las tiendas por departamento hasta las tendencias que marcan las grandes cadenas, pasando por los retos a los que se enfrentan las tiendas del futuro.
La aparición de nuevos modelos de negocio, los cambios de hábitos en los consumidores y las nuevas tecnologías han transformado por completo el recorrido de las tendencias. La pasarela ha dejado paso a la calle como trendsetter, y el tradicional trickle down effect ha quedado atrás en favor de un modelo de transmisión no lineal.
Pero, si los punks llenaron las calles de negro y tartán y el Saint Laurent de Hedi Slimane volvió a poner de moda los pantalones pitillo, ¿quién decide que las tiendas sean más claras o más oscuras, más hogareñas o más discotequeras? Pasarela, clientes o marcas: ¿quién dicta las tendencias en el visual merchandising?
“Por su cercanía con el sector, está claro que las tendencias de la moda influyen mucho”, asegura Ignasi Morató, coordinador del máster en diseño de espacios comerciales visual merchandising de BAU Centro Universitario de Diseño de Barcelona. Si una temporada las tendencias dictan colores más sobrios o estéticas más recargadas, las tiendas también siguen el mismo camino.
Junto con la moda, la otra cara del visual merchandising, el interiorismo, también es clave a la hora de marcar las tendencias. “Al final, no dejas de estar creando ambientes”, asegura el académico. Sin embargo, la mayoría de los expertos insisten en huir de los “interioristas estrella”, y dejar de lado la personalidad del decorador para centrarse en las necesidades del cliente y adecuar la imagen del establecimiento a la de la marca.
“El problema es que, de repente, un interiorista se pone de moda y todo el mundo replica su misma estética”, explica Damián Sánchez, director creativo y socio de Alfons&Damián. “Igual que si ahora es tendencia el Gucci de Alessandro Michele, todas las marcas, incluso las minimal, cogen prestadas algunas tendencias y hacen brocados”, añade.
Ese mismo mimetismo entre marcas se reproduce también en el visual merchandising. Uno de los ejemplos en los que coinciden todos los expertos es Abercrombie&Fitch. Cuando la marca estadounidense era líder en su categoría, otras firmas del sector replicaron su formato de tienda oscura, sin escaparates y con muchos complementos decorativos. “Sin embargo, y aunque todavía quedan secuelas, en cuanto pasa el boom de la marca, también queda en el olvido la tendencia en decoración; en visual merchandising, como en todos los sectores, las empresas copian al líder”, apunta Sánchez.
En tercer lugar, de la misma manera que en el negocio de la moda, el consumidor está cada vez más en el centro de la estrategia del visual merchandising. La manera de presentar las prendas en tienda, los colores que se utilizan e incluso la iluminación han cambiado aceleradamente en los últimos años al ritmo que lo hacían los hábitos de compra de los clientes. “Hubo un momento en que la tendencia era poner el total look en las tiendas: había perchas que hasta tenían calzado colgado”, asegura Morató.
Esta manera de presentar las prendas ha quedado un poco anticuada en favor de establecimientos más autoservicio, a imagen y semejanza del canal online, donde los clientes buscan las prendas por artículos. “Los clientes están más informados y llegan a la tienda sabiendo lo que quieren, lo único que necesitan es que, en el punto de venta, se les diga dónde encontrarlo”, añade Sánchez.
Por último, al margen de los hábitos de los clientes, el entorno en el punto de venta también se adecúa a otras características del consumidor, como su edad. Así, para los clientes más jóvenes es preferible utilizar entornos que recuerden a espacios públicos, como plazas o discotecas, mientras que los clientes mayores o más clásicos, excepto que se trate de una moda deportiva, prefieren tiendas que recuerden a un espacio interior o a un hogar.
Diseño, Interiorismo, Merchandising, Visual, Visual merchandising
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