
Mónica Algás (Bóboli): “La moda infantil es menos atractiva para captar socios locales en el exterior”
Roberto Verino, Tendam, El Ganso, Desigual, Mango, Neck&Neck, Scalpers, Tous, Bóboli… Las empresas españolas de moda van ganando posiciones en los mercados exteriores con el Made in Spain bajo el brazo. ¿Cómo han llegado a plantar sus banderas en países de prácticamente todos los continentes? En la serie de reportajes ‘Los exploradores de la moda’, patrocinado por el Foro de Marcas Renombradas Españolas, Modaes.es se adentra en cómo ha sido la experiencia internacional de las marcas de moda españolas más significativas y con mayor recorrido en los mercados internacionales a través de la experiencia de directivos y empresarios.
No sólo de tiendas monomarca viven las marcas españolas en el extranjero. Esa es una de las principales máximas de Mónica Algas, consejera delegada de Bóboli, compañía de moda infantil que surgió en 1984 y que comercializa sus prendas en sesenta mercados sin apenas realizar inversiones en retail.
La empresa nació con vocación internacional. Antes de desarrollar su marca propia, la sociedad propietaria de Bóboli, Star Textil, empezó como confeccionista de otras enseñas europeas y, en ese contexto, hizo de la exportación una de sus principales fortalezas.
Así, desde el día de su nacimiento, la compañía liderada por Mónica Algás contó con los cimientos para lanzarse al comercio internacional donde, en la actualidad, genera el 45% de los 43 millones de euros de su facturación.
Bóboli cuenta con una filial en México porque se trata de un mercado clave para la compañía
Los primeros destinos de la empresa fueron los países del entorno, concretamente Portugal e Italia, que se han convertido en dos de sus mayores mercados. Después de realizar esas dos primeras conquistas, Bóboli cruzó el Atlántico y desembarcó en México, un país donde tuvo una buena acogida desde el principio.
La consejera delegada de la compañía reconoce que la llegada al mercado azteca fue trascendental para la compañía, al extremo que decidió echar raíces en ese país con la implantación de una filial. En la oficina mexicana trabajan tres personas que coordinan las actividades de siete agentes comerciales externos y realizan todos los trámites administrativos.
Para Algás, la apertura de una filial es una buena forma de consolidarse en un mercado, sobre todo si se trata de un país clave para la economía de una empresa. “A través de una filial puedes controlar mejor los procesos, tanto de ventas como de aduanas, lo que ayuda a elevar la facturación”, explica la directiva. Bóboli opera en México con corners en las tiendas departamentales de El Palacio de Hierro y, de momento, no contempla la apertura de puntos de venta monomarca.
La franquicia, una de cal y otra de arena
Según Algás, las empresas de moda infantil tienen un problema de base para su crecimiento en el exterior, porque “no resultan tan atractivas para captar socios locales”, como sucede con las marcas que se especializan en moda para adultos.
Sin embargo, pocas compañías del sector disponen de la infraestructura y los recursos necesarios para realizar una expansión. Ante la disyuntiva, las empresas pueden alcanzar una alianza con un socio local para crecer mediante la apertura de franquicias.
Bóboli ha echado mano de esa opción, aunque sólo en dos ocasiones. En ambos intentos, la empresa ha corrido distintas suertes. Hace ocho años, la compañía selló una alianza con un socio local con el que abrió dos tiendas, que posteriormente cerró. Algás reconoce que el socio no fue el adecuado.
A pesar de la mala experiencia, la empresa volvió a insistir con la franquicia y en diciembre de 2017 logró un acuerdo con el grupo saudí Imtiaz, que en la actualidad opera con dos tiendas de Bóboli en Riad, además de que analiza la apertura de un tercer punto de venta.
Las complicaciones del multimarca
Mónica Algás asevera que el crecimiento de su empresa en el extranjero a través de retail prácticamente está descartado, salvo en Oriente Próximo, donde la alianza con un socio local es casi una obligación.
Más allá de Oriente Próximo, la empresa prefiere el canal multimarca porque le funciona y no demanda tanta inversión como el retail. No obstante, el crecimiento de una empresa a través del canal multimarca no está exento de riesgos, sobre todo de carácter comercial. Según la consejera delegada de Bóboli, los impagos también son una realidad en el mercado internacional, lo mismo que las anulaciones.
Para minimizar los riesgos, Bóboli se apoya en los grandes almacenes, que se han convertido en sus aliados en sus mercados estratégicos en mercado clave como el italiano, alemán o mexicano. Sin embargo, la empresa también repite esta operación en mercados más pequeños como, por ejemplo, Estonia.
Bóboli minimiza las inversiones en retail apostando por hacer la distribución en grandes almacenes
Mónica Algás insiste que en la actualidad las empresas tienen más medios para crecer en el exterior gracias a la tecnología, que permite operar en países que antes no sólo parecían lejanos, sino que se antojaban prácticamente inaccesibles.
Así, Bóboli complementa su expansión física en el extranjero con su presencia en plataformas de ecommerce que, por ejemplo, le han permitido llegar al mercado chino, donde abrir puntos de venta es costoso y difícil. La empresa comercializa sus colecciones en el gigante asiático a través de Tmall y, de momento, la experiencia es positiva.
A pesar de ello, la compañía continuará apostando por el multimarca como principal canal de crecimiento, a través de su departamento comercial que desde España coordina y gestiona las actividades de setenta agentes comerciales externos.
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