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Ternua, a por el modelo Gucci-Puma: en busca de compras para crear un grupo de ‘lifestyle’ en 2030

Publicado en Noticias.

La sede central de Ternua se encuentra en Arrasate (Guipúzcoa) y cuenta con 5.000 metros cuadrados.

Ternua Group se transforma. La compañía vasca, uno de los líderes españoles del segmento outdoor a través de la marca Ternua, se vuelca en la creación de un grupo que pivote sobre el deporte y la moda. La empresa, controlada por la familia Lasa y con una facturación que supera los 26 millones de euros, sigue el modelo del gigante del lujo Kering y el binomio entre Gucci y Puma y se marca como objetivo evolucionar de una empresa local de sportswear a un grupo de marcas de moda y deporte en 2030. Tras hacerse con Lorpen en 2015 y con Loreak en 2019, las compras se convierten en uno de los ejes de esta transformación.

Según ha explicado a Modaes.es el presidente de Ternua Group, Juan Luis Lasa, la compañía se encuentra actualmente sondeando el mercado en busca de oportunidades para seguir creciendo mediante compras. Tal y como admite Lasa, actualmente no hay ninguna operación sobre la mesa, pese a que “en el mercado existen muchas oportunidades”. “Buscamos un perfil concreto, que nos aporte algo que no tengamos –señala-; Lorpen nos dio tecnicidad e internacionalización y Loreak nos aporta creatividad y diseño y experiencia en retail”.

Con sede en Arrasate/Mondragón (Guipúzcoa) y una plantilla de 200 personas, Ternua Group aprovechó el impacto de la crisis económica para “limpiar” su cartera de marcas y apostar por la especialización en negocios que pudieran internacionalizarse. El motor de las ventas del grupo es, hoy en día, Ternua, dedicada a textil y complementos outdoor. A Ternua se suma Lorpen, especializada en calcetines técnicos para outdoor.

Ternua no cuenta con ninguna operación sobre la mesa, pero señala que “en el mercado existen muchas oportunidades”

La compañía se centra ahora en diversificar su negocio adentrándose en moda. Además de Loreak (con oferta masculina y femenina dirigida a un público de poder adquisitivo medio alto, pues una gabardina, por ejemplo, tiene un precio de venta de más de 300 euros), Ternua quiere acercarse a la moda también con Astore, una marca que está haciendo evolucionar hacia un posicionamiento y una oferta similar a la de Le Coq Sportif.

“Cuando apostamos por el crecimiento inorgánico, nuestra primera opción fue comprar una marca de calzado, pero no cuajó –recuerda Lasa-; entonces decidimos ir más allá del outdoor y crecer en sportswear y moda”. Lasa asegura que la empresa no cuenta con un presupuesto concreto para adquisiciones, pues las operaciones se diseñan en función de cada socio y generalmente están vinculadas a resultados.

El presidente de la empresa asegura que Ternua es hoy “una compañía saneada, tras haber puesto nuestra deuda a largo plazo”. Para financiar su crecimiento y las adquisiciones, el empresario no descarta recurrir a deuda, ampliaciones de capital suscritas por los socios actuales o, incluso, dar entrada a un fondo de inversión, si bien reconoce que para esta última opción es “todavía pronto”. “Un fondo te ofrece pulmón o gestión: aún no hemos llegado al momento en que necesitemos dar ese salto”, explica.

El grupo cuenta con una plantilla de 200 personas, tres plataformas logísticas y cuatro centros de producción

 

Industriales, antes de todo

Los orígenes de la compañía hay que buscarlos en 1986, cuando los hermanos Uribesalgo (que hoy siguen trabajando en Ternua Group) pusieron en marcha una tienda de deporte en Arrasate/Mondragón, llamada Arrasate Kirolak. Dos años después, ante la escasez de oferta existente en el mercado, lanzaron la marca Astore y pusieron en marcha estructura productiva propia. En 1990, el pequeño comercio se trasformó en la sociedad Iasa y en 1994 lanzaron al mercado la marca Ternua para dar respuesta a la demanda de artículos para montaña.

A finales de la década pasada, la compañía constituyó su filial logística y en 2009 puso en marcha sus actuales instalaciones, que cuentan con 5.000 metros cuadrados. Además de las compras de Lorpen y Loreak, el último salto dado por la compañía fue la creación de una filial para gestionar el negocio de retail: aunque su negocio continúa estando en la distribución al por mayor (con 1.200 clientes en cincuenta países), Ternua cuenta con 26 corners de gestión propia en El Corte Inglés y Loreak con cinco tiendas propias.

Con una producción de 500.000 prendas al año (a las que hay que sumar los calcetines de Lorpen), Ternua Group tiene estructura en América (con filial en Toronto, oficina comercial en Utah y planta de producción y logística en Puebla, en México), Europa (con la sede central de Arrasate/Mondragón, filial y fábrica en Etxalar (Navarra) y oficinas en Annecy (Francia), Munich y Ámsterdam) y Asia (con logística y compras en Hong Kong).

“Si queremos trabajar en la industria de la moda, primero debemos ser industria, y ya lo somos”, señala Juan Luis Lasa, presidente de Ternua

En total, la empresa suma tres plataformas logísticas y cuatro centros de producción. En la planta de Navarra trabajan 32 personas en producción y en la México, 31. La producción que no es propia se concentra en Europa para Astore y Loreak y en Portugal, Bulgaria, Asia y Túnez para Ternua, mientras toda la producción de Lorpen es propia.

La empresa saca pecho de sus procesos y de su “afinada” estructura. “Cuando empiezas te equivocas muchas veces, pero nosotros hemos dedicado los últimos años a desarrollar nuestro librito de procesos –señala Juan Luis Lasa-; si queremos trabajar en la industria de la moda, primero debemos ser industria, y ya lo somos”. Lasa señala que, ahora, “hay que ir a por la chispa”. “En la moda se hace al revés: se parte de la chispa y el diseño y luego te encuentras con el mundo real –afirma-; la moda debe ser un 5% poesía y un 95% procesos, por eso cuando compramos una empresa ya sabemos qué hacer”.

Procedente del sector siderúrgico, la familia Lasa se hizo con el control de Ternua en 2009. Desde entonces, la familia se ha centrado en ordenar la compañía de la mano de ejecutivos como Jokin Umérez, director general. Hoy en día, el capital de Ternua Group está controlado en un 70% por la familia Lasa y en un 30% por las familias y los fundadores de Lorpen, Loreak y Ternua.

El grupo cuenta con una plantilla de 200 personas, tres plataformas logísticas y cuatro centros de producción

Espacio de prototipaje de la compañía en su sede central, en Arrasate (Guipúzcoa).

Objetivos 2030

Con la mirada puesta en convertirse en un grupo de marcas de moda y deporte en 2030, la empresa finalizará el ejercicio 2019 con una cifra de negocio de 26,5 millones de euros, incluyendo sólo ocho meses de actividad de Loreak. Esta cifra no es comparable con las facilitadas anteriormente por la empresa, pues hasta ahora Ternua comunicaba ventas brutas. Según datos facilitados por la compañía, en 2014 la cifra de negocio del grupo se situaba en 16,8 millones de euros.

Mientras la facturación se ha elevado cerca del 58% en cinco años, la plantilla ha pasado de 74 personas en 2014 a 200 en 2019 y el peso de las ventas internacionales del 11% al 35%. El margen bruto de la empresa, que se encuentra en beneficios desde 2014, según Lasa, se sitúa en el 46,8%, teniendo en cuenta que el grueso del negocio del grupo procede de la distribución al por mayor.

El plan de negocio de la compañía hasta 2022 pasa por alcanzar un crecimiento anual compuesto (cagr) del 9% desde 2014, consolidar el margen en torno al 47% y mantenerse en beneficios, si bien la evolución del resultado bruto de explotación (ebitda) dependerá de las adquisiciones que se realicen. “La generación de valor se genera en base a que todas las marcas del grupo aporten a la estructura”, sostiene Umérez, que trabaja en la empresa desde 2011.

El grupo cuenta con una plantilla de 200 personas, tres plataformas logísticas y cuatro centros de producción

¿Cómo va a ser el crecimiento orgánico de Ternua Group a partir de ahora? “Será el resultado de la combinación de mercados, canales y producto”, señala el director general de la compañía. Por geografías, la empresa se centra todavía en mercados maduros en el segmento del outdoor como Europa (con España, Francia, Italia, Alemania y Países Bajos a la cabeza), América (Estados Unidos y Canadá) y Asia (con foco en Japón y Taiwán).

Por canales, el grupo se centra en el wholesale, que permite, según Umérez, “crecer de forma rentable y rápida internacionalmente”. La empresa operará en retail con Loreak y con corners de Ternua, pero descarta el desarrollo de una red de tiendas más allá de la marca de moda. El ecommerce será otra de las palancas de desarrollo de las marcas de la empresa, además del canal profesional, con el que Ternua viste a colectivos (policía, bomberos…) que requieren prendas técnicas. En producto, por último, la estrategia de la compañía pasa por potenciar Lorpen, desarrollar Ternua con equipamiento y accesorios y reposicionar Loreak y Astore.

Las previsiones de la empresa pasan por que en 2022 las ventas en Europa copen el 28% del total, mientras el resto se repartirán entre Asia-Pacífico y Latinoamérica (7%) y España (65%). Retail y digital, por su parte, representarán el 15% del negocio, pero el grueso (78%) continuará correspondiendo al wholesale. El textil deberá crecer hasta el 80%, para que el 20% corresponda a accesorios.

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