Adiós Elio Berhanyer, exponente de la “era dorada” de la moda en España
Adiós a Elio Berhanyer, uno de los exponentes de la costura en España de las últimas décadas. Nacido en Córdoba en 1929, Berhanyer ha fallecido en su residencia de Madrid. El diseñador fue Medalla de Oro al Mérito de las Bellas Artes en 2002 y Premio Nacional de Diseño de Moda en 2013, además de ser uno de los fundadores de la Asociación de Creadores de Moda de España (Acme).
Fue diseñador autodidacta, de origen humilde, que inició su carrera como botones en una agencia de publicidad, donde demostró su destreza en el dibujo de figurines de moda. Más adelante fue diseñador de vestuario de teatro.
En 1960, puso en marcha su propia casa de costura en Madrid. Nueve años después se lanzó al prêt-à-porter, coincidiendo con el auge del sistema. En 2010, en pleno azote de la crisis económica y financiera, el diseñador cerró su taller.
Elio Berhanyer inició su trayectoria como botones en una agencia de publicidad y diseñando vestuario para el teatro
A lo largo de su carrera, Berhanyer llegó a vestir a Ava Gardner, Lucía Bosé o a la Reina Sofía. Desde Acme, hoy recuerdan que recibió también el premio Cadillac como mejor diseñador de 1970 en Nueva York y el premio Campioni en Italia en 1991, además de ser nombrado doctor Honoris Causa por la Universidad de Harvard.
El presidente de Acme, Modesto Lomba, ha subrayado que ya le conoció de mayor, pero que siempre le sorprendió por su vitalidad. Ágatha Ruiz de la Prada, por su parte, ha señalado que se ha ido “el Maestro, el último de los Maestros”. “La época de oro de la moda española desparece con él”, ha asegurado la diseñadora.
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