
Michael Kors sigue los pasos de Tapestry y da forma a un nuevo `hólding’ del lujo americano
De bolsos premium a nuevos imperios globales del lujo. Michael Kors sigue los pasos de su compatriota Tapestry e inicia la construcción de un hólding de lujo a golpe de talonario. Tras perder hace un año la puja por Kate Spade, que terminó en manos de Coach (ahora Tapestry), Michael Kors ultima ahora la compra de Versace, en lo que supone un paso adelante para crear su propio conglomerado de lujo con base en Estados Unidos.
De la misma manera que hace dos décadas, en París, se forjaron LVMH y Kering (antes Pinault Printemps Redoute), ahora es en Nueva York, en el distrito financiero de Manhattan, donde se levantan otros dos titanes del sector. Pasada ya la fiebre de los bolsos Michael Kors y Coach, sobre sus cimientos se erigen hoy sus respectivos conglomerados empresariales especializados en el negocio del lujo.
Michael Kors, por su parte, está siguiendo los pasos de su competidor estadounidense. El cambio en los hábitos de consumo de los consumidores (para los que el logo ya no justifica el precio) y la caída del tráfico en Estados Unidos han puesto a los titanes del premium estadounidense en un punto complejo, y cada uno está siguiendo su propia estrategia. La de Michael Kors es, igual que la del renombrado Tapestry, las compras.
El grupo, especializado en bolsos, se hizo el año pasado con Jimmy Cho por 1.350 millones de dólares, con el objetivo de impulsar las ventas de la firma de calzado hasta mil millones de dólares a medio plazo.
El objetivo es diversificar más allá de los clásicos bolsos estampados con el logo con los que Michael Kors plantó cara al imbatible Louis Vuitton y, especialmente, diversificar los riesgos geográficos. Igual que muchas otras compañías estadounidenses, Michael Kors depende mucho del mercado americano, donde genera el 70% de sus ventas. Para Jimmy Choo, en cambio, el continente apenas representa el 30%.
En esta línea, Michael Kors ha comprado ahora Versace por 2.000 millones de dólares. La compañía, que en diez años ha multiplicado por catorce su tamaño, se ha marcado como objetivo acelerar su ritmo de crecimiento. En su actual hoja de ruta, la empresa tiene marcada la cima de los mil millones de euros en ventas, lo que acercaría al grupo estadounidense a los 6.000 millones de dólares de facturación.
Versace atraviesa ahora por un momento dulce en su trayectoria. Dos años después del fichaje de Jonathan Akeyord como consejero delegado, la compañía congeló sus planes de saltar a bolsa e inició un rediseñó de su plan de negocio.
Crear “el primer grupo de marcas de lujo modernas basado en Nueva York”. Este es el plan de Coach para afrontar la nueva etapa a la que se enfrenta el sector a escala global. La empresa, que controla también Stuart Weitzman, se hizo en 2017 con Kate Spade con el objetivo de ganar tamaño y llegar a un público más joven que no cubre con su marca homónima.
Para hacer frente a esta nueva etapa, la empresa estrenó a finales de 2017 un nuevo nombre y una imagen corporativa con el objetivo de diferenciar el grupo de su marca homónima. La empresa cambió su denominación a Tapestry (tapiz, en inglés), en el primer gran rebranding del sector desde que PPR se convirtió en Kering en 2013.
En el último ejercicio (concluido a 1 de julio), Tapestry marcó un retroceso del 33% en su resultado neto por la digestión de la adquisición de Kate Spade, pero aceleró un 31% su crecimiento, hasta situar las ventas en 5.880 millones de dólares (5.160,3 millones de euros). Con la incorporación de Kate Spade en su cartera, Tapestry puso fin a cuatro ejercicios de ingresos estancados.
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